Recommendations for supplies for Blaster Prop build

[Armante]

Maaaaaaaaaaaaate!

Bl**dy hell I looked all over and didn't find that

Ah well, I got the one for a decent price, and now two more to mess about with! Thanks so much for sharing.

[Armante]

Resurrecting this thread

I'm at a point of creating a work space in the garage, and then I'll finally be ready to have a go at my blasters.

Starting to get some supplies together, and this morning stopped in at Supercheap Auto to look at builders fill/bondo. Got a bit lost with what to get. Are they all much the same? I figure I don't want one with fibre glass or metal in it, but any other tips?

Turned out I have an old tin at home left behind by a builder, and I had a quick go at patching a hole. Do all of them stink that bad!? And what's the best way to handle it - I mixed it on a plastic tray while wearing gloves. Any tips from builders on here on best practises?

Thanks in advance for any input

[oota goota]

Resurrecting this thread

I'm at a point of creating a work space in the garage, and then I'll finally be ready to have a go at my blasters.

Starting to get some supplies together, and this morning stopped in at Supercheap Auto to look at builders fill/bondo. Got a bit lost with what to get. Are they all much the same? I figure I don't want one with fibre glass or metal in it, but any other tips?

Turned out I have an old tin at home left behind by a builder, and I had a quick go at patching a hole. Do all of them stink that bad!? And what's the best way to handle it - I mixed it on a plastic tray while wearing gloves. Any tips from builders on here on best practises?

Thanks in advance for any input

there is a bit of difference with the bogs. Builders bog is a good all rounder but it pays to get a finer/ thinner bog for hole filling etc. A spot putty can be also be useful if you are going for a super smooth finish.

Most builders fills are polyester based so yes they smell that bad. I don't even notice anymore that's probably not a good thing. You can get fillers that dry out in the air but I don't think they are hard enough for prop making.

Just make sure you add enough hardener and mix it properly. Nothing worse than having to dig out bits of unhardened filler good luck!

[badges2nz]

Ohh the smell, yes I like that smell funnily enough, I re built half of my AT AT drivers helmet with that stuff among other things.
It is good to use depending on how strong a mix you make up, the lighter it is the longer it will take to set.
But in saying that if you need more working time leave it a bit lighter, darker and it will set literally with in a minute.
Also with some experimentation you can mix in a little acetone to make it a runny slush for pouring but it will set the same.
As always be carefull with your mixes, use good ventilation and safety first, you can replace a cast or what ever your working on but not your eyes etc etc.

[Armante]

Cheers OG and Badges, appreciate the experienced feedback

[joshsurf]

i use a two part polyester filler but basically its just bog, for big areas that need filling.you have to work fast before it hardens and the trick is to smooth it as much as you can to minimise the sanding you have to do on the other end. for rebuilding i use an epoxy putty called kneed-it. ii think Selly's do it. its good for building up broken parts as it moulds to any shape and sets hard as a rock. for small fills and finishing i use Tamiya basic putty. its great for smoothing out before priming. the best advice is make sure your surface is prepared properly, and make sure the first layer of paint is dry and well cured before adding the next one( i should heed my own advice sometimes as i rushed my DLT and paid the price with a re-sand and repaint!). Priming can also highlight areas that need to be filled, sand re-sanded, etc, etc. Most spray paints from Bunnnings or mitre 10 work well, but for a better paint and colour selection( but more expensive) I use Tame spray cans. Not saying they are better and i do use other brands, Dulux seems to work well, but i like the finishes and the colours available in the range. What i have found is some incompatibility between brands that can lead to poor adhesion or bubbling, bleeding of colours etc. mostly with the cheaper paints, so i avoid those. as said before i weather off with acrylic washes of brown then black. washing over the whole area then dabbing off with a paper towel, allowing to dry, then washing over again, until it feels right. with my weapons if finish off with some silver rub n buff applied to a brush rubbed off on a rag till its almost dry then running it over raised areas. then i seal it all with Testors clear lacquer.blah blah, this is what i do and there are many other methods,but I'm happy with the results i get. i try to find pictures of naturally weathered metals so i can try and replicate it as closely a i can. wall of text over!!

0EBD7F8C-E822-4472-AF51-896839C40BA6_zpsnyo6opck.JPG (3.61 MiB) Viewed 7166 times

my mando sniper rifle
and helmet as examples:

2DD294C8-3D76-478B-8E31-B163D55A4BAD_zpshfkh5vv2.JPG (86.86 KiB) Viewed 7166 times

[Armante]

Thanks Josh! Lots of info in that wall of text

[joshsurf]

Thanks Josh! Lots of info in that wall of text

Lol yeah sorry I kinda waffled. Never drink and post people. Haha!